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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.